Surfing: Wave Selection
Look over your shoulder as you sit out beyond the break to give yourself plenty of time to catch a wave at the right moment. A square wave, like a flattened letter ‘A’ is beyond hope. You need to look for ones that rise steeply, so a face forms that your board can ride against. Dipping the tail gives the water a surface to push against. But if that wall is too flat, there’s too little forward momentum.
If you catch that wave too late, just as it starts to pitch over, the water will dump you into the deep. If that happens, stay under a moment to give the water time to sweep past. That will make it easier to rise and prevent you from getting another head bashing as the wave bulk continues to move forward.
If you are too far forward, the wave simply crashes on top of you and your surfboard, again pushing you down and under. If you wait too long, you’ll end up in a chaotic swirl of white water that is much harder to surf in.
That’s about the same as catching a wave that doesn’t form up into a ‘C’, that just flows by in the shape of a mound. Better to be a little farther out, so you can paddle in, or closer in so you can catch a wave after it has been moving toward shore for a few seconds.
Follow the experienced surfers and you’ll quickly see where is the right position to start and the right moment to move.
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